As the only yogi at Shwe Oo Min Kalaw, and without a monk to
talk to about my practice, I need to be especially careful about maintaining
awareness and monitoring my mind. Intensive practice has pitfalls—all kinds of
demons can arise on retreat. As I’ve been told time and again, the challenge is
to accept them, invite them in for a cup of tea, and figure out why they’re such
frequent visitors.
There’s a Tibetan saying that you should live at least two
valleys away from your teacher, meaning that you have to be really motivated to
visit him, schlepping up and down steep terrain to spend time with someone who
knows you. That’s the old model, born from an agrarian culture during a time
when a teacher’s workload was considerably lighter than those of today’s
meditation masters, who use long-distance jets to lead retreats with yogis all
over the world.
In a way I now have 50 teachers, and no need to even get out
of bed. They’re all on my hard disk, with a handful on my iPod. I’ve got talks
by the cream of Western teachers (Joseph Goldstein, Sharon Salzberg, Jack
Kornfeld, Ajahn Sumedo) who spent time in the 1960s and 70s with dhamma
heavyweights such as U Pandita, Mahasi Sayadaw, Dipa Ma, and Ajahn Chah. I’ve
also got actual recordings of those four Asian masters (and dozens of others)
with English translators.
The source of this bounty? The Great Dhamma Hard Drive that
is making its way around meditation centers in Myanmar, and I suppose in other countries,
too.
Gone are the days when monks were told to leave their
monasteries, to use their alms bowls for their meals, and to spread the Dhamma
far and wide. Today the teachings might make their way from hard disk to hard
disk via a small number of portable disk drives that contain a terabyte of dhamma-data. I’ve
downloaded about 1/3, and even then I don’t think there’s any chance I’ll make
it through all those audio, video, and text files before my demise.
Weighing in at 45 gigs is Sayadaw U Tejaniya, whose
teachings I listen to more than the others. That’s funny for several reasons.
He is a genuine meditation master—he was personally chosen by Shwe Oo Min to
take over the position of Meditation Sayadaw when Shwe Oo Min stopped teaching.
He is in great demand all over the world.
It seems strange that I should be listening to mp3 files of
a teacher who I could easily go visit and listen to in person—he’s just an
overnight express bus ride away. But the files I have were recorded at the
Insight Meditation Center in Barre, Massachusetts. U Tejaniya led a month-long
retreat there early last year (2012), and they paid his favorite translator to
fly all the way from Singapore to assist him for the entire month. She is an
excellent translator, and that makes all the difference. So I have over 30
hours of clear recordings of small groups of retreatants asking the same
questions that Sayadaw hears all the time in his office in a Yangon suburb.
For a while here in Kalaw I had one-to-one interviews with a
Canadian monk named U Khema. He was serving as the interim caretaker monk for
the meditation center while the main monk was away taking care of his teacher
in California. U Khema is the best teacher I’ve had during my year in
Myanmar—not because he has the depth of knowledge or power or experience of U
Tejaniya or other Burmese masters, but because he speaks my language, both
linguistically and culturally.
U Khema and Paul during our trip to a elephant camp 20 miles
from Kalaw.
His style of learning is the same as mine, a mix of hands-on
doing and reading. I would often see him on the porch of his kuti reading a Buddhist text on his
Kindle at noon, and I would look again at 1, 2, 3 and 4, and there he’d be, locked
in. So when I asked him questions about certain defilements that arise again
and again in the mind, he had a deep well of knowledge to share about how the
whole process works. The Five Hindrances. Five Aggregates. Eightfold Path. Fourteen
akusala cetasika (unwholesome mental factors). Seven bojjhanga (enlightenment factors). U Khema also knows all of their
individual names in Pali, the ancient
language that the Buddha spoke. The monk knows his stuff, and I don’t, so it
was a good match.
He went back to his home monastery a month ago, so I’ve had
to let go of my attachment to the idea of having regular access to a good
teacher who knows me. There is a long history of bhikkus and bhikkunis who
become resident monks at monasteries in order to be close to their favorite
teachers, and who spend years with them so that there is some sense of
connection similar to the Tibetan masters and the yogis who tramped over two
mountain passes to visit them.
I will never have that connection with U Tejaniya, but I
will benefit mightily from his books and recordings. Meanwhile, I’ve listened
to all of Joseph Goldstein’s 46 talks on the Satipatthana Sutta, the core text
of Theravada Buddhism. I’ve listened to 10 talks on the same topic by Bhikku
Bodhi, an American monk who lives in Sri Lanka. Excellent stuff. Ajahn Sumedo’s
humor always comes through in his recorded teachings, and Sharon Salzberg’s New
York attitude comes through in hers.
I listen to at least one teaching per day, often in the hour
just before I sleep. I’m spending an average of 2-3 hours daily with my Dhamma
Disk, reading from the thousands of texts that are on it, listening to the many
hundreds of talks, and watching the fifty or so films, including the fiction
film Kundun, the PBS documentary on
the life of the Buddha, and a few nature documentaries from PBS and BBC that
are not really about dhamma, but give a sense of wonder about our planet.
Such is the path to nibbana in the 21st century. I
feel fortunate that long before I ever thought about coming to Myanmar, I had
opportunities to listen to live teachings from a broad range of meditation
masters, including some elderly Tibetans who were the last of their
kind—educated in Tibetan monasteries before escaping to India in the 1950s and
60s.
I’ll just assume that they would react with equanimity to a
yogi sitting in his Kalaw kuti with
his earphones plugged into a Macintosh, looking for ways to make friends with
his many defilements.

